Main-Course Vegetarian Pleasures

May 8, 1995
Lemlin (Vegetarian Pleasures), winner of a James Beard Cookbook Award, serves up 125 meatless main-course recipes to which speed of preparation is the key. Most of the recipes require only 30 minutes of prep time, and many can be prepared ahead in stages. While arguably asserting that frozen vegetables can be substituted for fresh ``without sacrificing flavor or texture,'' Lemlin also observes, rather sensibly, that if she used only freshly cooked beans rather than canned she would eat fewer beans. She suggests keeping on hand certain non-perishable staples and rotates them in and out of her recipes. Although there are few lightning bursts of imagination and her spicing tends to the minimalist, Lemlin does offer recipes of flavor and heartiness in helping sizes meant to satisfy, which they do. A recipe for Baked Vegetables with Garlic, White Beans and Olives that seems on paper likely to be a bit bland is, on the plate, just right.

April 15, 1995
Here are two good books for the increasing number of vegetarians or "almost" vegetarians among us. Lemlin, author of Vegetarian Pleasures: A Menu Cookbook (Knopf, 1986) and Quick Vegetarian Pleasures (LJ 2/15/92), realized that it's always hardest to come up with the centerpiece of a vegetarian meal, and she provides more than 100 recipes for meatless entrees. Quick recipes are highlighted, and there is also a chapter devoted to more elaborate dishes especially for entertaining. For most collections. Lee is a New York City caterer, cooking teacher, and author of several other cookbooks, including Chinese Cooking for the American Kitchen (1980). Her latest offers a wide variety of sophisticated but generally uncomplicated recipes, along with dozens of helpful sidebars and suggested menus. Like Diane Shaw's Almost Vegetarian (LJ 9/15/94), Lee's book is directed to those who haven't necessarily given up meat but who are no longer eating it every day; although stricter vegetarians will certainly enjoy her recipes, many include suggestions for nonvegetarian variations or accompaniments. An attractive collection from an enthusiastic and accomplished cook, this is highly recommended. [HomeStyle main selection and BOMC alternate.]