June 17, 2013
Winemaker Smith releases a heady bouquet of earthy tones and varietal flavors as he guides us carefully through the art of making, drinking, and enjoying the fruits of the vine. Wine, for him, is “like liquid music, for it has the capacity to embody a spectrum of emotional modalities, to exhibit harmony or dissonance, and it has the power to transport us from care and circumstance.” Smith delineates the principles of postmodern winemaking: “Vine balance is the economic meeting place for winemakers and growers”; “The rebirth of a simple, inexpensive method shows promise for categorizing a wine’s fragility or robustness. Sensory methods remain our best piloting tools.” Along the way, Smith profiles “winemaking’s lunatic heroes,” including Gideon Beinstock, Randall Grahm, and Bob Wample. Enjoying wine, the author points out, is a sensory experience, and he suggests that “music pairing can greatly improve your chances of enjoying a wine.”