Zen Vegan Food

October 4, 2021
Iinuma, deputy chief priest of Fukushoji, a Buddhist temple near Tokyo, showcases the flavors of shojin ryori, or vegan Buddhist temple cuisine, in this illuminating collection. He starts with a primer on Zen vegan food, which—in addition to being free of animal-derived proteins—focuses on balancing sour, sweet, hot, salty, and bitter aspects to optimize each ingredient’s full flavor (though readers are advised to adjust to their guest’s preferences “to show your care for other people”). Recipes are on offer for two different dashi stocks and a mushroom miso paste—staples that are called on often to lend depth to dishes, such as deep-fried tofu and potato croquettes. A basic rice porridge becomes a springboard for multiple varieties of congee, including one with pickled plum and Egyptian seasoning and another starring seared carrots. Main dishes—organized around ingredients including kabocha squash, napa cabbage, and daikon radish—feature such showstoppers as kabocha squash fritters and a soothing napa cabbage soup, while an unexpected chapter of Italian-influenced recipes swaps tofu for cheese in a number of dishes. Meanwhile, Iinuma’s charming “Zen Vegan Notes” share helpful tips and snackable trivia (in olden days, for instance, adzuki-bean congee was eaten to ward off evil spirits). This makes cooking with mindfulness an appetizing endeavor.